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I only collect tax for items that are shipped within Florida so if your delivery address is elsewhere then you will not be charged tax when you complete checkout.  Otherwise please contact me before you make the purchase.

I can suppress the collection of Sales Tax if you have a valid Florida Exemption/ResaIe certificate and provided that I agree to this before you complete checkout.  Use the Contact Me link at the bottom of every page to send me a copy of your certificate, which needs to be legible so sending the original PDF version is usually best.

I suggest that you place the required item(s) in the cart and follow the order flow until the point where you are asked to send funds.

By that stage you will have created an account in the store, which I can then mark as tax exempt after I review your certificate.

After I confirm that the account status has been amended (by email to you) you can go ahead and recalculate the total and enter the payment information.

For the avoidance of doubt or disappointment, please make sure that we complete the tax exemption process BEFORE you complete checkout as the store platform reports to the State the sales tax payments it sees via the checkout/fulfillment process and once it is collected I cannot retrospectively refund it.

I do not collect VAT for UK orders.  For that reason the value of any goods ordered for UK delivery should be in excess of $180 (approx £135) as orders smaller than that amount require the seller to register with HMRC and that the seller collects and remits the 20% VAT imposed by the UK government.

This position came into force at the end of 2020 when the UK import rules changed due to Brexit .

(See https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/changes-to-vat-treatment-of-overseas-goods-sold-to-customers-from-1-january-2021)

Previously, items less than £15 were not subject to VAT and items in excess of £15 were charged VAT at 20%, with this being collected by ParcelForce from the buyer at the time of delivery (with a handling fee being added for that service).

The new rules are that the £15 VAT-free threshold is removed and all items are subject to VAT.  Sellers sending items costing in total less than £135 (exclusive of postage cost) to the UK now need to register with HMRC and collect the 20% VAT and submit returns regularly to the UK government with the funds collected.  I assume that as is the case in the USA, I would need to file returns even if nothing has been collected.

Orders above £135 are handled as before with tax being collected from the recipient.

My approach to this requirement is to decline to accept orders for delivery to the UK that are under $180, exclusive of postage.  For a very small number of small orders it simply isn't worth the hassle of complying with the new regime.  Countries in the EU are unaffected by the change.  This only applies to the UK, and is triggered by how the government has elected to implement import taxation post-Brexit.

I hope that you will understand my reasoning.

If you want to place an order (or have placed an order that I am unable to process), your options are either:

1.  Cancel the order here and instead buy the same item through the parallel eBay listing (the item numbers are the same, so just put the item number into the eBay search box at https://www.ebay.com/usr/prostudioconnectionllc).  eBay will collect the tax and remit it to HMRC as they are large enough that the cost of developing UK-specific workflows is worthwhile.  The eBay prices are a few percent higher due to the very high commission structure that eBay operates.

2.  To add some additional items to the order to bring the order value to more than $180 so that I am not required to collect the tax, and pay the VAT yourself upon delivery - as before Brexit.

Sorry, I'm not set up to take calls, so deliberately no phone number is posted.

I usually respond to emails within a few minutes, so there is little value added diverting resources to establish a parallel telephone channel. Also email finds me immediately regardless of geography so is much easier to provide a consistent customer experience.

You can contact me through the 'Contact Me' link on every page of the site and there's a Chat/eMail button on the bottom right hand corner of the screen.

I also prefer to take questions via email as I can send you URLs and attachments etc that will probably be a lot more productive than a phone conversation. Also then it's very clear if I agreed to do something for you, so there's less chance of me forgetting what I promised. Nor your misunderstanding what I committed to.

I think you'll find me responsive on email so please try that first? I usually offer near real time response on email during daylight hours (unless there's a vacation message flagged on the site).

Please bear in mind I usually have ~500 different items listed, and I simply can't retain all the details in my memory. So there is no way that I'll be able to give you a meaningful answer to something that isn't detailed in the listing without checking my facts first.  For that reason I work via email so that I don't give you information which you can't rely upon.

Sorry, I'm not set up to handle questions over the phone.

I much prefer to handle any questions via email. If the answer isn't posted here you can contact me through the 'Contact Me' link at the bottom of the page.

Direct email is OK too but make sure you say what item you are asking about (including a copy of the URL is easiest). faq@prostudioconnection.com

95%+ of answers are on this page so it may save you some time to check here first.  If the answer isn't posted then you are welcome to email me through the 'Contact Me' link at the foot of every page.

No. I deliberately don't use any Best Offer system.

So please, again please, don't spend valuable time sending me one.

I know from experience what price works for me. So I'd rather save you time and disappointment and not receive Best Offers.

I'm sorry if you think this is unreasonable, but I'm busy seven days a week keeping up with orders placed at the listed price.

Thanks for the thought anyway.

Sorry no.

My charity/community contributions are handled via other mechanisms.

Sorry no.  In my experience Government purchasing procedures are way more hassle for the seller than is the case with normal buyers.

I think it best to assume that I don't know more about the item that I've put in the listing, so proceed on the basis that I don't have the capability to provide a hand-holding service for your install.

Please bear in mind that I usually have hundreds of items listed. I'm flattered if you think that I'm an expert on all of them, but the reality is that I almost certainly know no more than the guy who wrote the manual (which in most cases is linked in the listing), most likely somewhat less.

Please assume that if it isn't in the images then it isn't included, unless specifically stated otherwise in the listing.

New includes brand new, and items that have not been deployed but which may be open-box, plain packaging, worn packaging etc.  Very few of my items are brand new.  Most will have some packaging blemishes.

Refurbished comprises two types of offer.  Manufacturer Refurbished is where the factory has tested the unit and confirmed that it meets their specifications.  I don't usually apply more labor to these items so the firmware installed by the factory may not now be the most recent revision.

Seller refurbished is where I have invested time in cleaning, testing and repairing an item.  For consistency across different selling channels, I operate to the eBay definition which is "An item that has been restored to working order by the eBay seller or a third party not approved by the manufacturer. This means the item has been inspected, cleaned, and repaired to full working order and is in excellent condition. This item may or may not be in original packaging. See the seller's listing for full details."

So the item will be cleaned, tested and fully working but I do not usually replace components speculatively apart from small batteries etc.

Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended (unless very clearly stated otherwise).  See the seller's listing for photos, full details and description of any imperfections.

The listing should provide details of any test procedures followed, or if the item is being offered as untested.

Nearly all of what I sell is tested to the best of my ability - but please bear in mind that I don't work for the manufacturer and I don't have access to a factory test rig.  So my definition of tested is that I power up the device and check for basic functionality - for example that it passes audio cleanly, that the LEDs flash as they should and that the meters move etc.

In the case of items that have a large number of additional connections for external control logic etc then it wouldn't be cost effective to make up a custom tester and cabling set just to sell one item so unless there's reason to doubt that these functions are working, it's unlikely that they would have been tested by me.

The approach above works well in practice - I have a return rate of well below 1% on tested items (and actually 90% of those re-test as perfectly OK).  So the odds of anything being amiss are low but not zero, a point that I would ask you to bear in mind if you are ordering internationally.

Generally I only have the items you see listed so the answer is "probably not" but you are welcome to contact me if you want to ask anyway.

My items are usually pre-packed and sealed ready for immediate shipment so please forgive me if I don't want to tear apart the existing packaging to re-shoot the photos.

If there's some vital piece of information that's missing then feel free to contact me, but I do try and take photos from all angles when I post the listing including any manufacturer's serial number or decal if one is present.

Probably nothing functionally - but check the listing text in each case.

The differences are usually just cosmetic.

Mostly my listings are one-off items but sometimes I have more than one available so you are welcome to ask if you wish.

I don't like using the term Mint Condition and I feel that it is over-used by some sellers and often is misleading.

Unless the item is brand new then I won't usually describe it as MINT.

I do have a large number of items that are maybe open box/never deployed/store returns etc - that perhaps show signs of having been handled if you look closely, and those signs possibly limited to areas of the device that would not be visible in normal use.

In that situation 'near mint' seems like a fair description to me.

But please go by the listing text and photos to assess a particular item that you are interested in.

Please use the listing text and photos to assess a particular item that you are interested in rather than my categorization - which is of course a subjective assessment.

But here's how I would define these terms:

Excellent - An obviously used item that fully works and which looks close to new, particularly from the angles that are viewed in normal use (so it might for example have scratches on the underside). Any blemishes are small. Careful touch up of paintwork (usually in the case of black items) to restore full visual impact.

Very Good - Between Good and Excellent

Good - Fully working. Some signs of wear. Knobs/lamps/controls all present. Some blemishes but no major dings or scrapes.

Fair - Substantial signs of use but fully working. Some dings and scrapes - see item images for details. May be missing some trim components, minor screws etc.

Ugly - Usually fully or mostly working, but check the listing text for actual details. Cosmetically poor. Ideal as a donor unit for good parts to renovate another unit, perhaps that's in better cosmetic condition.

For spares/repair - Not working (in full or part), or untetsted. Usually sold with no warranty and with no right of return for lack of functionality.

All my items are pre-packed ready for immediate shipment.

I therefore make no distinctions based upon the buyer's location.

You are welcome to ask, and I will try and remember your interest.

Generally no as I don't have that information reliably. If I notice anything that I think would be relevant to a purchase decision then I'll mention it in the listing.

Most of the items I have are used or open box and I probably wasn't the person who broke the factory seal so I can't offer any guarantees.

However I will add remarks in the listing of any factor that I think you a buyer would want to know about, including any smells. My sense of smell is generally good, but I don't undertake a forensic analysis of every item.

Unless there is some reason given in the listing to believe that this is possible, please assume that if the item requires AC power that it will operate only on 115V AC.

If the item is dual voltage (or is internally switchable) than I usually say so in the listing.

Where an AC power adapter is included I usually include a photo of the decal showing the specifications so that international buyers can source a replacement unit of the correct specification.

115V items that are shipped outside of the USA or Canada are sold on an unwarrantied, as-is, non-returnable basis as I cannot warranty someone else's choice of power supply, correct wiring of the connector, or their efforts to modify or adapt the device for the different AC voltage in their country.

International Buyers Note
If the 115V AC power supply is of no use to you then often I can reduce the postage cost a bit for international buyers by leaving the PSU out of the package.

I won't know the exact saving until I discard the existing packaging and repack the item.

If I was able to find an electronic copy of the manual then I included a link to the file in the listing.

If no link is provided then that's because I couldn't locate the manual when I looked.

If you have one that you would like to share with other buyers as a goodwill gesture you are welcome to email it to me and I will post a link to it in the listing.

A hard copy may be included if the listing says that one is provided, or if one is shown in the images. if it is not shown or mentioned then no hard copy manual is provided.

If there's a date sticker on the casing then usually I will include a photo of it.

Otherwise, I'm sorry but I don't have a database of such answers as it would be a substantial undertaking to build and maintain that information for ~500 items - that would have little or no practical impact on selling prices in the real world.

In any case even if I did, I would just be telling you what I was told by someone keen to sell me something - and I doubt that the information would be very reliable anyway.

My preferred approach is to show plenty of high resolution photos of the actual item for sale (in nearly all cases, multiple item listings excepted) with the results of my testing - as that's information that I can have faith in.

No. I have no affiliation with any manufacturers and I have no factory service capabilities.

I do however sell items typically a lot cheaper that 'official' channels.

I'm sorry but design consultancy and user training is not included in the listing price.

I suggest that you ask any questions via Google as that will give you far more detailed responses than I could ever find time to write.

All my items are pre-packed ready for immediate shipment

Therefore it usually isn't cost effective to tear apart two packages and re-write and re-photograph two listings to move one part across from one to the other.

Of course you could buy both items, mix and match parts as you wish, and then re-sell the unwanted item yourself.

All my listings stay posted until the item is sold, at which point they are marked as Sold Out - and removed shortly afterwards. They do not expire and I almost never cancel them and re-list the item.

So you should assume if the item is no longer shown then the item has been sold.

Check the item listing for the specifics of an individual purchase, but usually I guarantee that it will arrive working (unless clearly stated otherwise) and you have the duration of the return window (for most items this is 30 days) to test and install the item - and let me know of any concerns in the unlikely event of a problem.

So for the avoidance of doubt, if the item works great for a month and then quits, the responsibility for maintenance by that time has transferred to you and you would be responsible for making any repairs.

To be clear, my warranty is based upon the elapsed time from the moment that the item is delivered to the delivery address you gave me in the checkout process. So if you don't open the package for a year and then discover a problem, I'm sorry but the maintenance responsibility has by that time passed to you.

I'm not a manufacturer nor a distributor and I can't offer the same terms as they do (but I do charge a lot less).

If I've made an error then I apologize and I'll do my best to make it right. So please give me a chance to work with you to figure out what's going on and what the best solution is.

Most of the time I'm able to get the unit working without the expense and delay of having the buyer sending it back.

I would ask that you contact me first via the Contact Me link at the bottom of the page and let me have whatever diagnostic information is available. There's no point in your spending time on the phone to the manufacturer as they're not the party responsible for resolving the problem so you'll just end up repeating the dialog with me.

Unless it's immediately obvious what's happened, please try and be as specific as you can as that will save us both emails.

So just saying "it doesn't work" will simply generate a response from me asking you how you've tried to set up the item, are you using the correct manual, what it did or didn't do, any error messages, sounds, signals etc you observed, and what you've tried already to resolve the issue. It also helps me to have some understanding of your level of technical proficiency so I can tailor my response to your expertise level.

For the avoidance of doubt, I will not reimburse any expenditure that you make unless I have specifically agreed by email to do so.

Normally repairs to items are not economic and it's usually best for me to refund or replace any broken item rather than to pay someone to fix it. I mention this as some people falsely interpret 'money back guarantee' as a blank check with which to run around getting work done by third parties with no prior approval.

Unfortunately they end up being out of pocket at the end of the day, and I'd like to avoid that happening.

I'm sorry but I'm not a retail store. There is nothing that you can come and see.

All my items are prepacked and sealed ready for shipment. Even if you were here all you would see is sealed boxes.

I have stopped accepting PayPal.

Reasons:

1.  PayPal were the first card processor who changed their refund policies so that they would not refund the commission they charge (over 3%) on any payments that are cancelled or refunded.

2.  They proposed a 20+% hike in their commission in 2022 for doing nothing more.  I refused to pay this.

If you have some overwhelming reason why you would like to use PayPal then I will consider each request on an Individual Case Basis, but it would most likely be with the caveat that if you change your mind and want to return the item then your refund would be reduced by 3.5%.

Thanks, but I don't do Best Offers so please, again please, don't spend valuable time sending me one. I sell a small repertoire of items usually on a repeat basis so I know from experience what price works for me.

So I'd rather save you time and disappointment and not receive Best Offers.

Thanks anyway.

If the documentation produced by the store by default is missing something that you need then let me know and I'll try and produce what you need.  After your item ships you will be provided with a direct download link for an invoice as a PDF file, which is usually sufficient for most purposes.

If you need some documentation before you order, then the quickest solution is to create an account in the store - complete with your company details, VAT number, billing address, shipping address etc - and then add what ever items you want to your cart and begin the checkout process.  Once you get to the point where you are asked for payment details email me back (or use the 'contact me' link at the bottom of most pages - but probably not the checkout page for security reasons) to let me know that you would like an invoice, and I can use the data you entered to product an invoice for your approval/payment.  That invoice should pick up all the data associated with the account/order that you created so if you included all the details that your company or accountant requires then that should be added to the document correctly.

I regret that I'm not set up for that.  As a single person company, I don't have the resources to research buyers' credit standing, to track and maybe chase up payments etc.

For that reason I would ask that you follow the normal checkout process and use a Credit Card for payment.

It depends on whether the order has already been processed/picked up or not.

Please send me a request through the Contact Me link at the bottom of the page as soon as possible and I'll try and intercept the order before it gets picked up so that you don't have to make a return.

Maybe. But usually it isn't worth the additional effort.

Bear in mind that:

First, this is an expensive service for the buyer as the bank commissions on international wire transfers are high.

Secondly, often the buyer doesn't include the sender's commission payment so the payment arrives short which causes delays.

Thirdly, US banks charge $20 for each wire transfer received.

Fourthly, getting someone to reveal their banking details is a standard internet scam. That data is used to produce a fake check drawn on the seller's account.

Given these factors and the expense to both parties, it makes much more sense to use the normal checkout process in most circumstances. I pay the commission so it costs you nothing and if you fund the transaction with a credit card usually your item will be sent immediately.

I will consider requests on an individual case basis, but the amount of tax involved needs to be substantial enough to be justified given the additional manual processes and book-keeping hassle that this creates.

Please contact me before you purchase to check the position on a specific item.

I will consider requests on an individual case basis (and assuming that your spend with me exceeds the annual $600 threshold). Please email me to discuss before you make a purchase

I accept all the most common credit cards.  If you run into difficulties (which can happen with international transactions), please use the 'Contact Me' link at the bottom of the page to seek assistance.

Yes. I can usually accept payments via this method.

Clearance time varies, but during banking hours I should be able to confirm receipt of funds very quickly (minutes/hours rather than days to clear).

Contact me before you make the purchase.

PayPal/Credit Card is generally quicker and easier and offers you more flexibility and protection, but if bank transfer is your preference and the amount is great enough the justify the extra effort (ie. hundreds of Euros or more) then contact me before you purchase to agree how to proceed.

Sorry, no I don't.

For a start I believe that I would need a license from the FTC to operate a payment scheme where I hold a balance on account from you - and I don't have one and I won't be applying for one any time soon.

In any case there are so many retail products available that allow you to save for, or debt-finance a purchase that I see no reason to try and compete with those financial offerings.

Unless stated otherwise all items are sold with a 30 day right of return from the date of receipt by the buyer with the buyer paying the return shipping.

If there's a problem with an item you received and you think that it may not be what you ordered, please email me so I can take care of the problem.

Full details can be obtained from the link at the bottom of the page.

I apologize for the inconvenience.

Please contact me via the Contact Me link at the bottom of the page and I'll be happy to assist.

Let me know in more detail what damage has been done. If you can include detailed photos of the damage that helps me understand the problem much better and come up a suggested resolution.

Please keep all the packing materials in case an insurance claim is necessary.

Not usually - as I don't have a storefront or retail premises. If there are special circumstances that you want me to consider then please discuss with me before you purchase. If an exception is granted then it will be on the basis that the savings on shipping costs are worth your time and mine in setting up a pick up appointment.

Please bear in mind that I don't have a store. There's nothing that you can browse through, trial or take a look at and I don't have public bathroom facilities, creche etc. The best that I can offer is a straight exchange of goods for cash on the doorstep.

Due to the credit card companies' 'proof of delivery' requirements (ie. web based confirmation of delivery to the address they approved), pick up items must be paid for with cash at the time of collection. Cash means dollar bills - not checks, money orders, cashiers/company checks etc as I have no way of authenticating these documents while you wait.

If you want to test the item at that time then that's fine, but I don't have a public test bench so you would need to bring any required test gear with you. You are welcome to plug your test equipment into an AC outlet that's next to the front door.

My approximate location is here so you can see if I'm local enough to make the trip worthwhile.

Unless flagged visibly on the site (such as a banner across the top of the page), items ordered before noon Eastern time are shipped the same day.  Items ordered later in the day ship the same day whenever possible.  That may apply for example if they are sent by FedEx (as FedEx has a later pick up/cut off time than USPS).

Almost certainly yes. In most cases the checkout process will give you express handling options.

I can usually process FedEx Express shipments until about 2pm Eastern and still offer same day shipping - but if you timing is critical then I recommend that you contact me via the link at the bottom of the page just to make sure that I'm not away from base etc.

Probably yes - if you cover the cost if it makes a material difference.

Please contact me before purchasing with the desired address and I'll figure the most cost effective approach and add that as a shipping option that you can select when you check out.

99% of items ship within one business day. And at that time I send an email to you at the email address that you provide at checkout.

You can also see the status of your order on line by logging into the store.

I generally prefer not to ship on third party account numbers as there's no guarantee that the account number will eventually be accepted by FedEx billing as there is no validation process when a label is created, and I've had problems in the past with the shipment being re-charged to my account as payment from the buyer never came through.

This is worse in the case of international orders as I then get charged the buyer's brokerage and customs fees also.

When that happens FedEx doesn't give me any notification and it may only come to light some months after the package is delivered, so it's not a workflow that I can support as I have no means of collecting that extra amount from the buyer's credit card.

I will consider on an individual case basis the alternative arrangement of having you produce the shipping label using your FedEx account and for you to send it to me via email.  I can provided the origination address, dimensions and weight etc that you will need to produce the label upon request.

If you wish to proceed on this basis, it will be on the basis that you will be responsible financially for any loss or damage to your item once it is in the hands of FedEx.

I would add that in my experience of international deliveries FedEx very rarely comes close to meeting their quoted delivery dates and the service isn't much quicker than EMS airmail by the time that real world customs processing times are included.

I don't usually use these companies for international shipment as the brokerage charges are not included in their quotation tool output and these are not known until they are billed - often several weeks after delivery.  This arrangement doesn't fit the store model where I charge you the full amount at the time of ordering, and where I have no way of collecting more from your credit card than you authorized at the time of checkout.

I've had several experiences in the past with buyers refusing to pay those charges once they have received their goods (in which case FedEx charges me those fees), so I will consider using FedEx internationally (on an individual case basis) where the buyer prepares the paperwork on their account and then emails me the documents to attach to the package (I can supply the weight/dimensions etc).  That way all charges will be assigned to the buyer's account.

I do not have an active arrangement with UPS for shipping.  So I would only consider using UPS (via the same arrangement) on an individual case basis where FedEx can't be used.

Also in my experience the price usually works out to be $100 - maybe $200 - higher than the USPS Priority Mail Express International rate usually shown in the store. Plus the FedEx quoted delivery dates are very rarely achieved, it seems - and are rarely materially quicker than EMS airmail.  So USPS Priority Mail Express (ie EMS) is usually my recommended approach.

Ground service to Canada is an exception and *may* make sense for heavy items above about 12lbs in weight particularly if the delivery address is a business in an urban area where FedEx has its own delivery infrastructure.

If you wish to proceed on this basis, it will be on the basis that you will be responsible financially for any loss or damage to your item once it is in the hands of FedEx.

Yes when possible, provided that the items can sensibly and cost-effectively be shipped together. This is most likely to be the case with international orders.

If I can combine items and achieve significant savings I will refund the difference.

In general please make sure that any non-standard requirement is agreed before you purchase.

Most likely, yes if it is approved by your credit card company.  Just enter different Billing and Shipping addresses.

I can try if you let me know before you complete checkout. Use the Contact Me link at the bottom of the page.

Best approach is that you send me an email when it's OK for me to send your order.

This happens in less than 0.2% of transactions and should not be a problem.

Firstly check your order was received (ie. did you get an email confirming that it was placed).  It's easy to complete and on line order but to forget to press the final submit button.

By far the best arrangement is to add the text as an extra line in the 'Deliver To' address. That way it will find its way onto your label, and I will do my best to highlight it on the package.

I don't recommend this service.

I will normally use the method that you select at checkout.

However I do not normally make any changes that will delay your item beyond the delivery date suggested when you place the order.

Yes, automatically the moment that your label is printed.

With deliveries to business premises it is normal FedEx practice to obtain a signature for all deliveries.

If you want to check, the rates are easily checked at www.usps.com.  As you'll see, there is no surface mail service from the USA. Airmail is the only option.

If the international postage rates seem excessively high in the case of large but fairly lightweight items then I may be able to quote you a lower cost manually, as the dimensional weight penalty that applies to domestic shipping rarely applies internationally.

Use the Contact Me link at the bottom of the page if you want me to investigate.

You should assume not.

Yes, no problem.

Sorry but Germany now requires sellers in the USA of any size (however small) to pay to register for an authorization number under their acceptable packaging legislation.  Without this identification packages will not be passed through customs and presumably returned to the sender (so they say).  The cost of doing all this isn't justified by a couple of small orders a year so I would prefer just not to take orders for delivery to Germany in the future.  If they introduce an exemption for small businesses then I would be happy to reconsider.

Yes via Priority Mail Express International (ie EMS) but Priority Mail and First Class mail are too unreliable for any item of significant value.

Yes on an individual case basis. I normally recommend using USPS Priority Mail Express International service which gives full tracking.

Usually yes but FedEx charges PR as an international destination.  USPS may be more affordable.

Yes, but with the caveat that the value of goods ordered should be in excess of $180 (approx £135) as orders smaller than that amount require the seller to register with HMRC and that the seller collects and remits the 20% VAT imposed by the UK government.

This position came into force at the end of 2020 when the UK import rules changed due to Brexit .

(See https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/changes-to-vat-treatment-of-overseas-goods-sold-to-customers-from-1-january-2021)

Previously, items less than £15 were not subject to VAT and items in excess of £15 were charged VAT at 20%, with this being collected by ParcelForce from the buyer at the time of delivery (with a handling fee being added for that service).

The new rules are that the £15 VAT free threshold is removed and all items are subject to VAT.  Sellers sending items costing in total less than £135 (exclusive of postage cost) to the UK now need to register with HMRC and collect the 20% VAT and submit returns regularly to the UK government with the funds collected.  I assume that as is the case in the USA, I would need to file returns even if nothing has been collected.

Orders above £135 are handled as before with tax being collected from the recipient.

My approach to this requirement is to decline to accept orders for delivery to the UK that are under $180, exclusive of postage.  For a very small number of small orders it simply isn't worth the hassle of complying with the new regime.  Countries in the EU are unaffected by the change.  This only applies to the UK, and is triggered by how the government has elected to implement import taxation post-Brexit.

I hope that you will understand my reasoning.

If you want to place an order (or have placed an order that I am unable to process), your options are either:

1.  Cancel the order here and instead buy the same item through the parallel eBay listing (the item numbers are the same, so just put the item number into the eBay search box at https://www.ebay.com/usr/prostudioconnectionllc).  eBay will collect the tax and remit it to HMRC as they are large enough that the cost of developing UK-specific workflows is worthwhile.  The eBay prices are a few percent higher due to the very high commission structure that eBay operates.

2.  To add some additional items to the order to bring the order value to more than $180 so that I am not required to collect the tax, and pay the VAT yourself upon delivery - as before Brexit.